The last afternoon in Cuba, our group* splits into several con tingents. After a morning with the Architecture faculty at the University, a few are enjoying an official luncheon with the Mayor of Havana, while most are mustering for the final official group interview -- this time at the Ministry of Housing. I am going off on my own to visit with Cubans and observe housing unofficially: my friend Isa wants to show me the house her neighbors are reno vating -- "Very unusual. People haven't been able to do this kind of thing for 25 years."